I, Helsinki
A Finland Visitor's Guide
Russell Snyder
I, Helsinki
ISBN 978-952-7074-12-1 (EPUB)
Copyright Russell Snyder and Klaava Media
Photographs by Russell Snyder, unless credited to someone else.
June 2014
Publisher: Klaava Media / Andalys Ltd
www.klaava.com
book@klaava.com
Contents
See My Sights
1. Senate Square
2. Market Square
3. Old Market Hall
4. Rock Church
5. Uspenski Cathedral
6. Parliament Building
7. Sibelius Monument
8. Kaapelitehdas
9. Presidential Palace
10. Töölö Bay
11. Sports Museum of Finland
12. Olympic Stadium Tower
13. Puu-Käpylä
14. Hietaniemi Cemetery
15. Kaivopuisto Park
16. Winter Garden
17. University Botanical Gardens
18. Helsinge Parish Village
19. Esplanadi Park
20. Suomenlinna
21. Seurasaari
22. Pihlajasaari Island
Getting There
23. Guided Bus Tours
24. Guided Tour Boat
25. Walking Tour
26. Public Transport
27. Tourist Office
28. Helsinki Helpers
29. Helsinki Card
30. Sea Journey to Sweden
31. Visit Tallinn
Just for Fun
32. Linnanmäki
33. Indoor Water Park
34. Zoo
35. Casino
36. Opera
37. Music Center
38. Theater
39. Folk Dance
Museums All over Town
40. Art
41. National Museum
42. Mannerheim Museum
43. Urho Kekkonen Museum
44. Espoo Museum Center
45. Hakasalmi Villa Museum
46. Glims Farmstead Museum
47. Finnish Aviation Museum
48. Museum of Worker Housing
49. Fair Centers
50. Heureka Science Center
51. Hvitträsk
52. Museum of Art and Design
53. Haltia Wildlife Center
Eat, Drink and Enjoy the Nightlife
54. Finnish Food
55. Delicacies of Lapland
56. Seafood
57. Russian Food
58. Smorgasbord
59. Lunch in a Water Tower
60. Michelin Star Restaurants
61. Pubs
62. Dancing
63. Jazz Clubs
64. Clubs
65. Cafés
66. Outdoor Cafés and Restaurants
To Buy or not to Buy
67. Department Stores and Shopping Centers
68. Specialty Shops
69. Design District
70. Antiques and Second Hand Stores
71. Bookshop designed by Alvar Aalto
Recreation and Sport
72. Beaches
73. Outdoor Swimming Pool
74. Indoor Swimming Pools
75. Sunbathing
76. Water sports
77. Cycling
78. Nordic Walking
79. Fishing
80. Ice Fishing
81. Jogging
82. Hiking
83. Bird Watching
84. Sauna
85. Cross-country Skiing
86. Ice-skating
87. Sledding
88. Ice Hockey
89. Olympic Stadium
90. Finnish Baseball
91. Horse Racing
Celebrations
92. May Day
93. Helsinki Festival
94. Midsummer
95. Film Festivals
96. Women's Ten Kilometer Run
97. Jazz Festivals
98. Herring Market
99. Lucia Day
Enjoy My City!
The Author
I, Helsinki
Well, it's about time the world noticed me! A lady always appreciates compliments, and in recent years I've been getting a lot of fantastic reviews in the media and praise from visitors. I've been a European City of Culture, a World Design Capital and even my airport has consistently won awards for quality. Important organizations appreciate my reliability, my beauty, my natural surroundings and my friendly inhabitants. That's why I've become a very popular place to hold international conferences.
But life here was not always so wonderful. I was just a forgotten backwater until Sweden took me into its kingdom. In 1550 King Gustav decided to turn me into a proper town. Even so, things didn't really pick up until 1748, when Sweden started construction on a great fortress called Sveaborg, presently known as Suomenlinna. Suddenly, craftsmen, masons, carpenters, soldiers streamed into town. War is good business.
In 1809 Russian took control of Finland and made me the capital of a new Grand Duchy. The Russians set about fixing me up, and made considerable positive changes. In 1917, when Finland became independent, I felt like a debutant. Although, most of the world didn't pay much attention to me at first, in the last few decades they started looking my way and smiling. Recently, I've been described as cool, hip, fresh, modern, and even stylish and trendy. I certainly don't mind a bit of flattery!
Well, over the years, I've been called the "White City of the North" and the "Daughter of the Baltic." I accept these sorts of names, but I'd rather people refer to me as that "Wonderful Place to Visit" or a "Great City to Live In." All right, enough talk about me. What do you think of my city?
See My Sights |
1. Senate Square
Okay, that's enough introduction. Let me show you around. We'll start with my cultural soul. Senate Square is the neoclassic center created by Johan Albrecht Ehrenstöm and Carl Ludvig Engel between 1818 and 1852.
The most notable buildings are the University library, Sederholm House (the oldest building in the city) and the impressive Lutheran Cathedral that dominates the square. The Sederholm House has been converted into a museum that gives you wonderful insight into the life of a prosperous merchant in the 18th century. It also hosts changing exhibitions with themes about life in my city.
The University Library has been restored to its full glory, and the big cathedral awaits you with simple and sublime poise. In the center of the square towers a statue of Czar Alexander II who will be happy to pose with you for a photo.
Enjoy this scene by promenading around and admiring the architecture, or good weather permitting, relaxing on the Cathedral steps like the locals do. If you are there at the right time, you'll notice a special fair, market, exhibition or concert. Lucky you.
2. Market Square
A few steps south of Senate Square, is a feast for your eyes, the Market Square. This picturesque, lively, outdoor market is bordered by a harbor and attractive buildings. Eye-pleasing displays of fruit, vegetables, fish, handcrafts and some rather unusual souvenirs are there for your inspection. You may want to try "the best meat pie in Finland," or if you're a vegetarian, a Karelian pasty. In summer you can purchase sweet peas, strawberries or smoked fish, and devour them al fresco.
3. Old Market Hall
Next to the Market Square is the quaint and charming Old Market Hall. Here, you'll discover the finest in fish, meat, pastries, cheeses, seasonings and exotic delicacies. Do a tasting tour by buying an assortment of tidbits and sampling them on the spot.
For more of a local atmosphere, there are market places and market halls in Hakaniemi and Hietaniemi. Moreover, the Abattoir presents a spontaneous, urban way of life, celebrating food culture with a variety of market style food venders, cafés, and restaurants. Go ahead! Make your taste buds happy.
4. Rock Church
One of the sights that has really made me famous is the Rock Church (Temppeliaukion kirkko). It was designed by Timo and Tuomo Suomalainen, and was consecrated in 1969. This captivating church is built into solid rock with unfinished granite walls and a rolled copper roof. You get the feeling that you are inside a modern artwork. Inspiring and energetic concerts are often performed here. At other times, this is a wonderful place to sit, relax and, of course, pray.
5. Uspenski Cathedral
Another Church not to be missed is the Uspenski Cathedral located in Katajanokka near the South Harbor. Designed by Alexander Gornostajev and completed in 1868, it is the largest Orthodox Church in Western Europe. The building reflects the Byzantine-Slavic brick architecture of the 19th century.
The large, red church displays 13 golden, onion-shaped domes called cupolas. The interior is vividly decorated with sacred icons, religious paintings and elaborate chandeliers. Uplifting music is piped in to enhance the religious mood. Very sublime!
6. Parliament Building
Well, I don't want to mix into politics, but I'm quite proud of my Parliament Building. It is a massive, neoclassic granite structure with pillars. It looks more like a grand museum than a place where 200 MPs are attempting to get their points of view across and pass their favorite laws...and some are just trying to stay awake.
There are certain days when the public is welcome to watch parliamentary sessions, and you can make inquiries about getting a tour of the place. Then there are occasional protests which, unless there is a burning issue, are often ignored by everyone else.
7. Sibelius Monument
Like all Finns, I love Jean Sibelius' music, and am happy to see so many people paying tribute to him. The Sibelius Monument was created in 1967 by Eila Hiltunen in honor of Finland's greatest composer. Hundreds of steel pipes were welded together to form this majestic structure located in a serene park setting. It is especially dazzling when viewed from underneath. After witnessing the barrage of tourists armed with cameras, you might get the impression that all visitors are required to have their picture taken in front of this monument. Smile!
8. Kaapelitehdas
Photo: Matti Tirri / Visit Helsinki.
One of my favorite artist haunts is the Kaapelitehdas, a former cable factory that has been transformed into a grand cultural center. It hosts over a hundred artists who are busy creating in studios and workshops. There are exhibition halls, galleries, education centers, several museums, a café and a restaurant. Something is always happening at the Cable Factory: A big exhibition, a live TV program, an awards ceremony, a concert, or a huge party.
9. Presidential Palace
The President of Finland often hangs out (though he has a separate residence) in the center of the city. The Presidential Palace was completed in 1814 to serve as the Russian Czar's residence when he visited Helsinki. It became the Prez's place when Finland gained independence in 1917. Within these walls, the President hosts gala events, discusses world problems with foreign politicians, rubs elbows with royalty, and maybe takes refuge when he/she has a fight with his/her spouse.
10. Töölö Bay
Photo: Katri Pyynönen / Finlandia-talo.
If you'd like to take a stroll in my city, one of the most delightful places is Töölö Bay (Töölönlahti). Just follow the scenic path around this sheltered sea bay near the center of the city. On the eastern rocky outcrops, you'll enjoy exceptional views: Finlandia Hall, the Opera House, the Music Center, the Olympic Stadium Tower, the National Museum and the Central Park. From the western side, you'll appreciate the rustic old villas of Linnunlaulu, built in the 1880s. The abundant bird life can be observed from anywhere. At night, a walk along this 2.2-kilometer path is spectacular. I highly recommend this pleasant outing!
11. Sports Museum of Finland
Visitors often wonder why Finns are so enthusiastic about sports. You can find out at the Sports Museum of Finland. In this modest but informative museum located at the Olympic Stadium, you will learn about history of organized sport and fitness in Finland. There are thematic photos, objects and equipment with explanations and interesting trivia about the greatest athletes and the most important competitions. The museum features a tribute to the legendary runner, Paavo Nurmi, and an impressive collection of medals won by the remarkable ski jumper, Matti Nykänen. Two flying Finns!
12.Olympic Stadium Tower
You want a bird's eye view of the stadium, the parks and the rest of the city? Just take the lift to the top of the Olympic Stadium Tower, a 72-meter structure with an observation deck. Spend some quality time enjoying the sights, the greenery and the sea from this dizzying height. Perhaps it best to check the weather forecast first, though.
13. Puu-Käpylä
Once I had a lot more wooden buildings in my cityscape, but over the years many have been replaced by modern constructions. Fortunately, some wooden houses have been preserved. In the Puu-Käpylä neighborhood, you can wander around and take in the quaint beauty of early 20th century classicism. Most of the houses were built in the 1920s and 30s, and are very popular among artists, writers, musicians and, of course, carpenters. Wood is good!
14. Hietaniemi Cemetery
I don't forget the people whose work and sacrifices shaped me into the great city I am today. At the Hietaniemi Cemetery, presidents, statesmen, war heroes, artists, intellectuals and other important persons in Finland's cultural and political life have been laid to rest. Stroll through this beautiful site and learn how we pay tribute to our venerated ancestors. Besides the Lutheran section, the cemetery also has Orthodox, Islamic, and Jewish sections. It's quiet but inspiring here.
15. Kaivopuisto Park
An excellent place to unwind is Kaivopuisto, an attractive green space encircled by wealthy residences, embassies, old villas and water. The park has comfortable lawns, large trees, lively cafés, an observatory, and inviting walking paths.
From the gentle hills, you can appreciate the delightful views of the sea, boats of all sizes and the archipelago. For a bit of cultural enlightenment, observe the locals as they diligently wash their multihued rugs in the sea.
16. Winter Garden
My Winter Garden is not just for the cold months, it's an enchanting place to go all year-round. Here you can admire an assembly of exotic plants arranged inside a series of greenhouses. Touring these gardens is not only a delight to the eyes, the sensual fragrances and the gentle sound of water add to the serene ambiance.
17. University Botanical Gardens
The University Botanical Gardens contain a wealth of alluring plants situated in a large enclosed outdoor park and inside several greenhouses. An ideal place to promenade and spot some of the migratory birds that use these gardens as a nesting ground. A cozy café awaits you in an old wooden house.
18. Helsinge Parish Village
The Helsinge Parish Village (Pyhän Laurin kirkko, also known as Helsingin pitäjän kirkko) is located in my suburban city of Vantaa. This historic milieu is a magnificently preserved community of houses, buildings and streets representing the 18th and 19th centuries. The area contains a museum portraying the life of peasants in the parish right up to the 20th century. There are guided tours available in several languages.
At the heart of the village is the Church of St. Lawrence, an impressive greystone building constructed in 1490. It annually hosts an inspiring Baroque music festival, called BRQ Vantaa, around the beginning of August. Oldies but goodies.
19. Esplanadi Park
I call Esplanadi Park my petite oasis. It's a green strip decorated with linden trees, manicured grass, sculptured flower gardens, plus a few statues and fountains harmoniously scatter about. The park is conveniently situated right in the middle of town. This is the place where everybody watches everyone else: promenading, sunbathing, reading, kissing, arguing, drinking or playing musical instruments. Restaurants and their outdoor terraces beckon you at both ends of the park.
20. Suomenlinna
No visitor should miss my islands of the past and present. UNESCO considers Suomenlinna to be one of the world's unique treasures. This exceptional monument, built on six islands, is the largest historical sea fortress in the Nordic countries. There are 200 buildings on Suomenlinna, most dating back to the 18th century. Take walks around the fortified walls, visit the museums and art galleries, enjoy the vista points, overlooking the sea, have a picnic, or relax in one of the restaurants. Ferries leave from Market Square. Yes, you can climb up on top of a cannon.
21. Seurasaari
For a little tranquility, I would recommend Seurasaari Island. It is a thickly wooded national park where you can feed squirrels, watch Canadian geese and listen to the hammering of woodpeckers. Following the well-maintained walking paths, you will come to an open-air museum featuring old houses, barns, and granaries from all over Finland. There are beaches (even a nude bathing section), picnic areas, and festival grounds. The old church is a very popular place for summer weddings.
22. Pihlajasaari Island
Photo: Juho Kuva / Visit Finland.
If it's splendid beaches you're looking for, perhaps the recreational area of Pihlajasaari is for you. During warm weather, swimming, sunbathing and socializing are the order of the day. It is made up of two forested and rocky islands connected by a footbridge. For your pleasure, there is a barbequing area, a place to put up a tent, and a café/restaurant. On the eastern island, you may bathe au naturel if you are so inclined. The western shore has a beach with changing rooms and showers. Get there by boat from Merisatama pier, and join in the fun.
Getting There |
23. Guided Bus Tours
Main building of Helsinki University. Photo: Carolina Laaksonen / Visit Helsinki.
The easiest way to go sightseeing in my city is to leave the driving to an expert. Take pleasure in sitting aboard a deluxe coach and get enlightening views of my top sights. Guided bus tours are available for short inner city tours, half-day outings and full-day excursions. Finnish guides are friendly, knowledgeable, and proficient in many languages. Hopefully, your guide will have a clear voice and a sense of humor, too. Get details and tickets at the city tourist office or a hotel.
24. Guided Tour Boat
For an amazing perspective of my city, you can cruise the surrounding waters on a guided tour boat. Watercraft of various shapes and sizes are ready to take you around my harbors, shores, canals, archipelago, inlets, and even to the nearby idyllic town of Porvoo. These boats leave from the Market Square and offer commentary in several languages. Drinks and snacks are available, but if you have a hearty appetite, you may want to take a special lunch or dinner cruise. The main point is to relish the sea views, take in the invigorating sea air, and experience the fine atmosphere on board.
25. Walking Tour
Of all the ways to see my sights, going around as a pedestrian is perhaps the best. Walking will give you plenty of time to absorb the wealth of attractions. To make your walk more pleasurable, you can pick up a brochure pointing out all the art nouveau architecture at the tourist office, or get a free walking map. Alternatively, you might arrange to have a guide lead you on a sightseeing safari, a list of guides is available at the same office. Just put one of your beautiful legs in front of the other.
26. Public Transport
Another slightly adventurous means of sightseeing is using public transport. Get a tour for the price of a ticket. Trams 3 and 2 roll through a large area around my city. You can pick up a free brochure at the tourist office explaining the sights and landmarks along the way. You can also ask some of the commuters, who are usually happy to give you info. Finns are said to be shy, but they will usually gladly answer your questions. Other tramlines and buses offer interesting routes, too, if you are willing to experiment. Anyhow, I doubt if you'll get lost.
27. Tourist Office
Photo: Visit Helsinki
If you want to find out something about my city or pick up informative brochures, visit the Tourist Office. Don't be shy, ask those friendly folks lots of questions. That's what they get paid for. Here you can book sightseeing tours, hotel rooms, and get tickets to concerts, exhibitions and performances. You can buy train, bus and flight tickets as well. So, what's on your mind?
28. Helsinki Helpers
Not sure what to see, what to do or how to get there? Since 1994, Helsinki Helpers have been there to assist both visitors and residents. They patrol the inner city and cruise harbors. You can recognize them by the bright green vests, and big smiles.
29. Helsinki Card
For the uncomplicated approach to enjoying your stay with me, use the Helsinki Card which you can purchase at Helsinki Expert or online. This handy card is valid on all public transportation and gives you free entrance to attractions and exhibitions around the city. It is also valid on many sightseeing tours, and entitles you to numerous reductions and free gifts.
30. Sea Journey to Sweden
How about a sea journey to Sweden? Viking Line and Silja Line operate enormous ferryboats sailing back and forth to Sweden on a daily basis. Leaving in the evening from Katajanokka or the South Harbor, these are perhaps the world's most luxurious ferries.
Here are restaurants, bars, live music, shows, discos, duty-free shopping, gambling, karaoke and fun competitions. You'll find a variety of cabins and suites to suit your needs and pocketbook.
In summer, the view of the archipelago bathed in orange-red sunlight is unforgettable. However, the remarkable sight of sailing between ice flows in the depths of winter is quite an experience, too. You arrive in the morning and will have a enough time to enjoy the beauty of Stockholm before returning in the evening. Hej till Sverige!
31. Visit Tallinn
If you don't have time for a cruise to Stockholm, you might want to visit nearby Tallinn. Several companies operate ferries to Tallinn, Estonia from either the West Harbor or the South Harbor. Most trips take 2½ hours, but the speedboat operated by Linda Lines takes only 1½ hours. That gives you time for sightseeing, eating or shopping. However, if you do have the time, it's well worth spending a night or two in this old Hanseatic city. Tere Eesti!
St. Peters Line takes passengers, visa free, to St Petersburg in Russia and operates in the West Terminal. Привет Россия!
Moreover, Finnlines, located in the Hansa Terminal, has passenger service to Rostock and Travemünde in Germany. Hallo Deutschland!
Just for Fun |
32. Linnanmäki
Linnanmäki amusement park is for kids from 1 to 99 years old. It's rather modest in size, but offers something for everyone: dizzying thrills for adults, gentle rides for small children, diversions for teenagers, candy for the sweet-toothed, outdoor shows for the whole tribe, and various snack bars and restaurants for diverse appetites. The park also contains the indoor Peacock Theater which offers quality family entertainment.
Nearby is the Sea Life marine aquarium, which features everything from sharks, octopuses, and reef fish to fresh water fish, snakes and frogs. No fishing allowed.
33. Indoor Water Park
Photo: Serena Water Park.
For those who like it wet and wild, Serena in Espoo is meant for you. Inside is the largest indoor water park in the Nordic countries. It contains water rides with names like Tornado, Wave Pool, 140 and 60 Meter Slides, Wild Stream, Ski Jump. And there are relaxing Jacuzzis. But, save time for the outdoor park, which boasts such amusements as Crazy Race, Rivers, Half Pipe, Free Fall, Children's Land and the Main Pool. In other words, slide, glide ride, drop, float, dive, bathe, jump, splash and swim, or sit at the bar and watch the human aquatic creatures at play.
34. Zoo
For the fans of our animal friends, Korkeasaari is a zoo located on a picturesque island. Ambling along pleasant walkways, you'll be treated to splendid views of my city. On display are animals representing every continent, from arctic tundra to the Amazonian rain forest. Get there by waterbus form Market Square, Hakaniemi or by bridge from Mustikkamaa. No, you can't pet the bears!
35. Casino
Should you feel very lucky while visiting me, check out the Casino Helsinki. This establishment attracts foreign tourists, professional gamblers and local enthusiasts alike. There are around 300 slot machines that range from traditional to the latest video slot. Naturally, there are poker tables as well as roulette, blackjack, punto banco, Texas hold'em, oasis poker and the money wheel. For refreshment, choose from three restaurants in the casino: The Sports Bar, Bar All In, and the historic Fennia Salon, which hosts a regular international Show and Dinner in the evening. Is that Elvis over there?
36. Opera
Are noble voices or brilliant dancing your cup of tea? The Opera House was opened in 1993 with two organizations housed in one building: the National Opera and the National Ballet. Many positive reviews have been written about the productions taking place under this roof, and visitors come here from all over the world. If you are an aficionado of these exalted arts, be sure to get your tickets early as the best seats go quickly.
37. Music Center
One of my newest additions is the Music Center. Residents of this palace of notes are the Helsinki Philharmonic, the Finnish Radio Orchestra, and the Sibelius Academy. Moreover, world-class performers come here from around the globe. In addition to the 1704-seat main Concert Hall, there are 5 smaller halls: Black Box, Camerata, Organo, Sonore and a rehearsal room. They all have excellent acoustics for your listening pleasure. The Klubi Restaurant can also serve as a music venue while stimulating your taste buds with tasty food. Come hear the brilliant sounds!
38. Theater
National Theater.
Theater enthusiasts will marvel at the great variety of productions on stage at the Finnish National Theater, Helsinki City Theater, Alexander Theater, Swedish Theater and other smaller, intimate stages. The only difficulty for many foreign visitors is that performances are mainly in Finnish or Swedish. However, it is getting more and more common for English translations to be provided. Alternatively, you may want to attend a lively musical, where language is not so essential. Furthermore, there are a growing number of small productions in English that take place during the year. Break a leg.
39. Folk Dance
Finnish folk dance features colorful costumes and lively music. It can be seen in certain restaurants and regularly during the summer on Seurasaari island. The best performances, though, are given in concert venues by Finnish dance associations. These are usually advertised in the newspaper, on the Internet or at the tourist office. Get carried back a couple hundred years!
Museums All over Town |
40. Art
Kiasma Museum of Contemporary Art.
I may be a small city, but I have a fine collection of art:
Ateneum - The Museum of Finnish Art from the 18th century to the 1960s. Foreign art dating from the 19th century to the 1960s.
Helsinki City Art Museum, Tennis Palace - Finnish and international art exhibitions.
Sinebrychoff, the Museum of Foreign Art - distinctive permanent collections, sculptures, and furniture, plus changing exhibitions.
Kiasma, The Museum of Contemporary Art - features both Finnish and international art from the 1960s to the present.
Gallen-Kallela Museum, Tarvaspää - Akseli Gallen-Kallela's magnificent studio, his own works, and special exhibitions.
Amos Anderson - Permanent collections of Finland and European art, as well as changing modern art exhibitions.
Helsingin Taidehalli - Varying contemporary exhibitions.
You may also enjoy visiting some art galleries: Gallerie Forsblom, Helsinki Contemporary, Forum Box, Photographic Gallery Hippolyte, Sinne Galleria, Ama, Galleria Heino, among others. Is a picture worth a thousand words?
41. National Museum
Learn the story of Finland at the National Museum. This awesome castle-like building, guarded by a giant granite bear, is an excellent representation of the National Romantic style. It was designed by Gesellius, Lindgren and Saarinen, and completed in 1910. Inside you can take a walk through 10,000 years of Finnish history, starting from prehistoric Finland to modern times. Did we learn anything from the past?
42. Mannerheim Museum
Mannerheim in 1939. Photo: Yle Archives.
Carl Gustaf Emil Mannerheim served for many years in the Russian Imperial Army, traveled widely through Asia, was Commander-in-Chief of the Finnish army during the Second World War, and acted as president of Finland in 1944-1946. The Mannerheim Museum is located in his former residence, featuring the great man's remarkable collection of period piece furniture, art, mementos and gifts representing his action-packed life. You can see it all by taking a one-hour tour.
43. Urho Kekkonen Museum
Urho Kekkonen in 1956. Photo: Yle Archives.
You can learn about man who shaped the destiny of postwar Finland in the Urho Kekkonen Museum. It is lo...